Great meals made in Shades
By Colleen Coffield Sachs
Daily News Columnist
When all the parts are put together Shades becomes a friendly neighborhood place with good food, reasonable prices and a comfortable setting.
The interior has cozy booths with clear dividers that cut down on sound intrusion from other tables while still leaving sight lines open. Our booth was deep enough for a little one dining with us to stretch out and take a nap while the adults enjoyed dessert and good conversation.
There are also areas with tables and chairs, a bar that curves along one wall of the restaurant, and a comfy seating area perfect for waiting for a table (which wasn’t an issue when we visited) or enjoying the live music. The décor is warm, casual but neat, and attractive.
The wait staff was professional, helpful and welcoming. Our server was familiar with the menu, and made good suggestions.
Among those suggestions was an appetizer of Hot Mama Shrimp. Nice size shrimp were beautifully fried so that they had a crisp exterior and plump interior. They were doused in hot wing sauce and served with cooling blue cheese dressing.
Good fried seafood was the norm at Shades. Gulf Coast Fish Bites was another fried appetizer. Fried oysters, shrimp and fish make appearances among the entrees and the sandwiches (on a Kaiser roll or po’boy).
Another fried option proved to be my favorite item on the menu. Southern fried chicken was a homey and delicious twist on the classic. This version starts with a boneless chicken breast that is marinated in buttermilk to make it tender and tasty. It is fried until the crust is crunchy, and topped with a flavor-packed cream gravy.
Some of the items go a little more upscale, but keep a comfort food character. There is a molasses pork loin chop. Jambalaya pasta is a bowlful of penne packed with cubed chicken, chunks of andouille sausage and crawfish tails and tossed with a spicy cream sauce.
Salads include a classic iceberg wedge with blue cheese dressing, mixed baby greens with sweet pepper vinaigrette, a Caesar, and spinach with bacon and mushrooms dressed with raspberry vinaigrette.
Crab cakes were offered as an appetizer or entrees. The cakes were rich and the flavor good (although they could have been served a bit warmer). They got extra interest from a drizzle of chipotle aioli.
A tuna sashimi appetizer was light and delicious with a bit of seaweed salad and wasabi cream. Southwestern chicken egg rolls are a heartier option. For two-fisted heartiness, try one of the excellent burgers, and a Philly cheese steak sandwich.
Pizzas are a good size for one or two (depending on whether you have appetizers or salads to start). There is plain cheese, pepperoni and vegetable. A less traditional version is the Caribbean with jerk chicken and mango sauce. The crust was crisp, the cheese melty and the toppings abundant.
While entrees are served only after 5 p.m., most of the rest of the menu is available all day. There is a special lunch menu that is heavy on sandwiches and salads, including a Cobb salad and a Cuban wrap sandwich.
The kids menu offers a burger, fried shrimp, chicken tenders, fish sticks and buttered noodles.
The desserts were all hits with our group. Among the best bets when we visited was an orange cheesecake that was reminiscent of a Dreamsicle.
Shades is a good option for a cozy meal for two or a few in a booth, a livelier meal with friends at a table, or hanging out with a group at the bar. Good food and value teamed with excellent service make Shades a neighborhood restaurant you want to visit again and again.
Colleen Coffield Sachs is restaurant reviewer for the Daily News. She dines unannounced at area restaurants for this column. You may write to her in care of the newspaper at P.O. Box 2949, Fort Walton Beach, FL 32549.
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