Eastern flavors harmonize at Sai-Kyo
By Colleen Coffield Sachs
Daily News Columnist

DESTIN – Once you figure out where Sai-Kyo’s name comes from, the cuisine and the proper pronunciation of the name, become obvious.

The first part of the name is for Saigon, and the last part of the name is for Tokyo. Sai-Kyo serves Vietnamese and Japanese cuisine.

Booths line the walls of the large, open dining room. Tables and chairs are at the center and a sushi bar is along the back.

This is a family-operated place (you are likely to see kids doing homework at one of the tables) and the staff makes diners feel welcome.

The first part of the menu is dedicated to Vietnamese fare, and it is where we found the best values. Most entrees are $7 to $9 and servings are generous.

Pho, the signature dish of Vietnamese cuisine, is excellent. The broth in this beef noodle soup has good flavor, and can come with a variety of meats, including springy Vietnamese meat balls, steak and tripe. Soft noodles soak up the broth.

Pho is served with lime wedges, sprouts, cilantro and basil to add to taste. There are also condiments on the table to accessorize the soup. Add a touch of chile sauce for heat, fish sauce for saltiness, and hoisin for sweetness.

Stir-fried dishes feature meat, crisp tender vegetables and light sauces. Shrimp with mixed vegetables, and beef with ginger and scallions were both good options.

I also liked the rice dishes such as Com Thit Nuong Trung, a bed of rice topped with grilled pork and a sunny side up egg. A combination fried rice with shrimp, pork, chicken, and chicken sausages was simple, filling and good.

The menu didn’t include my favorite Vietnamese dishes, bun (rice vermicelli) and banh mi (a Vietnamese sub sandwich). But when we visited the first time, the specials board included bun. Happily the specials board has not changed, and I order the bowl of thin noodles topped with grilled pork, an egg roll, fresh sprouts and vegetables often.

To start the meal, I like the fresh spring rolls. Transparent wrappers hold crisp vegetables, rice vermicelli and shrimp. It is light and refreshing. For a richer starter, turn to the Japanese portion of the menu for a snow crab and shrimp-filled fried spring roll. Baked green mussels and beef tataki are other good Japanese starters.

For an entrée, teriyaki is offered with chicken, beef, scallops, shrimp, salmon and tuna. There is also a vegetable version. Sai-Kyo’s teriyaki has a lighter, more subtle sauce than most I have found. Vegetable, chicken and shrimp tempura is also on the menu.

Much of the Japanese menu is devoted to sushi lunch and dinner combinations. There is also a list of sushi rolls. While I tend to prefer nigiri sushi and sashimi, Sai-Kyo’s rolls were nicely prepared, and there were some rolls that aren’t seen at many of the other sushi restaurants in the area.

The outstanding cucumber wrap substitutes cucumber for nori and wraps it around avocado and crab salad. The Red Dragon Roll uses a soy wrap instead of nori. The Island Roll included crisp bacon and crab salad with tuna on top.

It is worth noting that the sauce used on eel at Sai-Kyo is lighter and less sweet than the molasses-like sauce typically found elsewhere. The sauce is good, but if you are looking for something sweet and sticky, you won’t find it here.

Sai-Kyo doesn’t have a children’s menu, but will prepare items to suit children. I have returned often, and each time there are families with children dining there. It is nice to think that in the absence of chicken fingers, children are expanding their palates.

Sai-Kyo is a friendly place that makes diners feel welcome while filling them up with good food at excellent prices.

Colleen Coffield Sachs is restaurant reviewer for the Daily News. She dines unannounced at area restaurants for this column. You may write to her in care of the newspaper at P.O. Box 2949, Fort Walton Beach, FL 32549.