Lighthouse Has Its Bright Spots
By Colleen Coffield Sachs
Daily News Columnist

DESTIN – Although it has a U.S. Highway 98 address, the Lighthouse Restaurant is not obvious from the street. It sits in the center of Shoreline Village Mall at the intersection of U.S. 98 and Gulf Shore Drive.
  
It is a large restaurant with comfortable seating and a bright nautical-themed décor. Lighthouse has a friendly staff with good knowledge of the menu. Our server made suggestions, and the best items we tried turned out to be what our server had recommended.
  
Lighthouse is a popular destination for vacationing families during the spring and summer, as well as winter visitors. Among its devotees, Lighthouse is probably best known for its remarkably low prices.
   
The menu is extensive, and most of the entrees are half-price between opening at 4:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. There are another dozen entrees that are priced low from the start, and are also available in a smaller senior size regardless of the age of the diner.
  
Making the value even better, entrees are served with a choice of soup or salad, bread, and a side dish.
  
While atmosphere and value were both good, Lighthouse didn’t fare as well with the food. Some items were quite good, with the best parts of the meal being the appetizers and dessert (in fact, dessert was excellent). Other items were average, and some weren’t good.
  
Among our favorite items was an appetizer order of bacon-wrapped sea scallops. The scallops were sweet and had great flavor, and the bacon was cooked through. Boldly seasoned spicy boiled shrimp was another good appetizer.
  
Ironically, the mini fried crab cakes were good even though they didn’t have much crab flavor. They were nuggets of a seafood dressing that had a crisp exterior and moist interior. As long as you aren’t expecting lots of crab flavor, the cakes taste good (particularly with their tropical dipping sauce).
  
Flavorful amberjack was the best entrée we tried. It was offered broiled or char-grilled. We ordered the char-grilled version as recommended by our server and weren’t disappointed.
  
Another good entrée option was an order of steamed snow crab. The meat was slightly overcooked, but had a pleasant flavor, and benefited from being dipped in the melted butter served alongside.
  
The kids who dined with us (10-year old twins) liked the food on the kids’ menu. Options included fried fish, popcorn shrimp, grilled chicken and cheese sticks.
  
All kid’s meals come with a beverage, a pear half, and fries or a vegetable. The kids did say they would have liked a diversion, such as placemats with puzzles, to pass the time while they were waiting for dinner.
  
Dessert was easily the best part of the meal. We had good versions of cheesecake (available with several sauces) and Key lime pie. A homey wine cake was a big hit, and the best of the desserts was a frozen peanut butter pie. Desserts vary each evening, and most are housemade.
  
There were several items that I would avoid in the future. Our prime rib was heavily salted and mushy. I also would steer clear of the grouper. The sauces can be heavy and overpowering, and the fish itself had an off flavor and tough texture. Fried seafood items (particularly the oysters) had a coating that was too heavy and bland.
  
Lighthouse has an extensive menu that features lots of seafood, but also beef, ham and chicken. With entrees such as salmon florentine, liver and onions, teriyaki New York strip, and a variety of seafood combinations, there are plenty of choices.
  
Not everything will be a winner, but when the food is good, the value definitely adds up. Our server was accommodating when one entrée was not acceptable, so if something doesn’t work let the staff know. They are eager to make diners happy. And if you include dessert, you are bound to be happy when you finish your meal at Lighthouse.

The Lighthouse Restaurant

878 Highway 98 East
Destin, FL 32541
(850) 654-2828

Hours of operation

Open for dinner at 4:30 p.m. daily

Other information

• Reservations not required
• Handicap accessibility
• Children’s menu
• All major credit cards accepted

Price range

• Appetizers: $3.99 to $10.99
• Soups & salads: $2.99 to $7.99
• Entrees: $8.99 to $28.99
• Children’s menu: $5.99
• Desserts: $2.99

Colleen Coffield Sachs is restaurant reviewer for the Daily News. She dines unannounced at area restaurants for this column. You may write to her in care of the newspaper at P.O. Box 2949, Fort Walton Beach, FL 32549.